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Aug 31, 2023

A luxury guide to lipstick by make

We earn a commission for products purchased through some links in this article. Having created an haute couture concept for the lips with Dior Rouge Premier, Peter Philips reveals his tricks for

We earn a commission for products purchased through some links in this article.

Having created an haute couture concept for the lips with Dior Rouge Premier, Peter Philips reveals his tricks for wearing lipstick like an A-lister

A pioneer in the field of high-fashion beauty, Peter Philips – the creative and image director for Dior Makeup – knows everything about executing a luxury lipstick look. His vision and technique has been behind countless catwalk beauty looks, magazine editorials and campaigns and, now, the exquisite new Dior Rouge Premier lipsticks crafted with true haute couture spirit.

"It's a new approach to beauty and lipstick," he tells me in Paris, where I'm able to experience the collectible refillable lipstick collection, created in partnership with the fifth-generation porcelain house Bernardaud. The precious cases (weighty treasures which remain cold to the touch) are handcrafted in ceramic – a material that portrays fragility but is extremely strong – and adorned with the toile de Jouy print (a timeless signature motif of Christian Dior) in emblematic Gris Dior. Beyond collectible, they're intended to be handed down through generations – as is common with a cherished handbag or watch, but less so with a beauty accessory, despite the emotional connections held for a child and memories of their mother's make-up.

The craftsmanship extends to the unique formula, naturally, which "injects a huge amount of pigment, guaranteeing a smooth payoff in one swipe, as well as a long-lasting effect of up to eight hours," Philips explains. It's as caring as it is indulgent, with "a selection of the best ingredients," including red hibiscus extract, jojoba oil, shea butter and... 24-carat gold. "It’s a very discreet decadence," Philips explains of the latter, added not for the look but for an ultra-luxurious quality. "It was a kind of tour de force to formulate because gold melts at a different temperature to other ingredients," he reveals of the technical challenge. "But that's what haute couture is all about; you bend yourself backwards to get that little extra beading into a creation, which might not always be noticeable, but it makes a difference to how the wearer feels, and the whole experience."

Whether a Dior Rouge Premier lipstick is an investment you're destined to make or not, I asked Philips to share his secrets for success when it comes to lipstick, from embracing new shades to achieving different looks and avoiding faux pas. Here he reveals all.

"Even if a woman doesn't often wear a bold lip, when they do wear it, it leaves quite an impression," he says. While he cites Natalie Portman as "the perfect ambassador", (Philips being behind her recognisable red lips for countless Dior campaigns), he adds that he loves Jennifer Lawrence with a red lip. "She doesn't wear it often but when she does it empowers her – she really stands out."

Indeed, red lipstick "can give you the wow factor", he feels, but if you’re new to bold colours – or to lipstick in general – "start with a less visible shade," he advises. "I always say it's like wearing heels: don't go straight to a stiletto. Start with a medium heel, something more comfortable to get used to the walk, to the sensation, to the whole thing." Once you are used to wearing lipstick in general, it's easier to embrace various shades, he says. "It’s also like changing your hair colour – if you go from brown to radical platinum blonde straightaway, it's shocking. But if you highlight slowly, before you know it, in five years, you’re platinum blonde and owning it."

When it comes to application, there are myriad ways to wear lipstick now. "There are so many lipstick styles," Philips says, listing the most-worn today. "The pouty nude with an over-drawn Cupid’s bow is very popular – though Brigitte Bardot actually created that one. For this, maybe use a lip liner to overdraw your lip bow a bit and connect them a little, then you fill in your lips with lipstick straight from the bullet."

Then you have what he calls "the ‘my lips but better’ look", which features all-over colour with faded edges, "like you just kissed somebody so it’s a bit blurry". He advises a special technique for this. "It’s best to do the lipstick on the inside of your lip and pat it in with your fingers or rub your lips together exaggeratedly". Similarly, "you can use finger application for lipstick to create a stain with soft edges".

Of course, there’s also the classic drawn lip – a staple on the red carpet. "I think a lip brush is best to use when you want to really controlled application," he advises, "especially on the outer edges of the lips, and then you can apply it from the bullet in the middle."

To make sure your lipstick is long-lasting, don't underestimate a formula that’s transfer-proof, he advises. "Then you're guaranteed there will be no issues the whole day long." Alternatively, you can cheat longevity with regular formulas, too. "Use your lip liner to set a nice base and apply the lipstick on top. Then, take a tissue to blot off the excess, apply a second layer, and use a tissue again to remove any excess. Finally, apply a little bit of translucent loose powder on top."

As for the most frequent lipstick mistake, "transfer onto the teeth is to do with where you place your lipstick," he feels. "The best way to avoid this is, after application, to suck your finger and pull it out of your mouth – because what goes onto your teeth is actually from what's on the inside of your lip." If you do this, everything that is on the inside of your lip will be on your finger and you can just wash it off your hands. "That’s a classic trick that’s as old as lipstick!"

Dior Rouge Premier launch in the UK on 16 August 2023 exclusively at Harrods

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